Crank Shift Kit Complete with Tanaka 39.8cc 2.20 hp PF-4000 50 to 1 mix ratior two cycle engine, Dicta Brand freewheels.
The Left and Right SHIMANO brand crank arms are NOT included. But we do sell them.
Click on the link below if you need the crank arms, 175mm length. Pick from Black or Silver.
Please be sure and read this information twice so you understand how the kit works and what parts you need to have and what parts you need to order.
The Chainwheel assembly is included. You will get a 27, 32 & 42 tooth chainring and a 44 tooth Drive sprocket.
This Crank Shift kit is for hard tail frames only*. This kit MAY work with some rear Suspension bikes depending on how the frame is made and how you mount it. Make sure your frame will work before you order. It's best installed on hard tail bikes.
You can have a front suspension fork and a suspension seat post. Also note you can have front and rear Disc, Drum or Roller brakes.
If you need a shift kit for a Full Suspension Frame see the Seven (7) speed kit for the Outside Drive gearbox.
New: 9-29-12 This kit will now fit both 68 and 73 MM bottom Brackets.
The Spindle, 6.9” or 175.26mm long with 4mm x 4mm x 20mm long key way. It adds about 2.4" extra in width.
The over all length is now 6.90", the old one was 6" long. We added .90" in length.
The key way has been moved .30" over to the center or adding .30" length to the right / pedal side.
The extra length is needed to accommodate the range of freewheels and how they are made, and how the pedal arms fit inside the ID of the freewheel.
This length will work for both 68 MM and 73 MM with room to spare due to the difference in using the crank arms that we sell or a wide range of the ones on most bicycle.
We added a extra bearing on the Crank Assembly and made the flange a little wider so the can be installed or removed easier.
The Spindle is made out of 17mm OD Ground and Polished 4140 HT, Oil Quenched & Tempered.
4140 Chromolly Steel has a standard, industry recognized Rockwell C Hardness rating of 28 - 32.
Our spindle will have the Traditional Square Tapered and per drilled and tapped with 8mm x 1.0 threads.
See picture showing the square taper.
The Bottom Bracket Axle, 6” or 152.40mm long with 4mm x 4mm x 22mm long key way. It's made out of 17mm OD Ground and Polished 4140 HT. Oil Quenched & Tempered 4140 Chromoly Steel has a standard, industry recognized Rockwell C Hardness rating of 28 - 32. Our axle will have the Traditional Square Tapered and per drilled and tapped with 8mm x 1.0 threads. See picture showing the square taper.
We have added Five (5) Double Sealed Ball bearings, two on each side of the Bottom Bracket and One inside the freewheeling 44 tooth drive sprocket.
The kit includes the two bearing cups that are CNC machined out of 6061 Alum. One has Left hand threads and one has right hand threads.
Both have flats machined on them so you can install and remove without any special tools.
Both hold Two double sealed ball bearings, 17mm ID x 30mm OD x 7mm wide.
The kit includes the two Idlers: 64" of 1/2" x 1/8" KMC Rust Buster Chain and One master link will come with the kit.
Two Delrin Sprocket Idler, 3" OD x 2" Track x .450" wide with a ball bearing and mounting bracket not pictured yet.
It will attach to the "U" Bracket.
The Sprocket Driven by the engine will be a 44 tooth, includes the dual guards & comes with the kit.
The Folding bike pictured has 24 gears that you can shift with the engine, the Dahon Matrix is NOT included, but we do sell the Dahon bikes.
We will pick the sprocket for the output shaft of the gearbox depending on the size of tire, engine size and rider weight.
Keep in mind we have tested this with a 16 tooth and a 33.5 cc engine in the lowest range will move a 6,100 rolling load (pick up) on concrete. A 16 tooth sprocket gives you a large sprocket dia. so the chain will track good and should not try to jump when in the lower gears. We have never had the chain to even come off one time nor should you as long as you have it installed and aligned correctly. We have now tested as small as a 10 tooth sprocket and they too work fine.
You can use all three chain rings and drive all the sprockets on the freewheel or cassette. If you have three Chainrings and a five speed freewheel you would have 15 gears that the engine can drive. 6 x 3 = 18 gears, 7 x 3 = 21 gears, 8 x 3 = 24 gears. You may even be able to use this with the 9 and 10 speed cassettes that could give you a total of 30 gears.
We have tested with a 24 and 21 speed bike.
The pedals do not turn while the engine is driving the bike. You can pedal along with the engine (if you can keep up with it) or you can just spin the pedals or change leg position on long rides.
It will go up any grade of hill and has a super fast top speed when on level ground. I have not been able to use all the higher gears as a 1.60 HP engine will only move “X” amount of weight at “X” speed.
I have rode the bike off road and it has a ton of torque and would go up any hill.
It may even go where a motor cycle could not go due to the fact that you can go at a very slow speed and have much more control of the bike.
With the wind at your back or going down hill you could keep shifting into the higher gears and gain more speed. Just because your bike, car or motor cycle could go 140 mph, that does not mean it is safe.
Ride at a slow safe speed.
Ride at your own risk.
When people in cars or trucks turn and look left and right, they see you coming from the left, and if they see that you on a bicycle they will think your going 10 to 20 mph max.
If you are going faster, say 25 or 30 mph a lot of them will pull out after they look right and they will not look left again as they think you are only going 10 to 20 mph and they have enough time to pull out and miss you.
If your going real fast, they pull out and you run into the side of the car or truck and that is not a good thing for any one. Make eye contact when you approach a vehicle and do not assume that they saw you and realize where you are.
Always wear all your safety gear, maintain your bike in top notch condition and always have two good working brakes and a kill switch for the engine that you can reach without moving your hand.
A motorized bicycle should not go more then 30 mph or what ever the stated max speed is in your local area, city or state.
It is up to you to find out your own city, state and local laws regarding a motorized bike, trike or any motorized vehicle.
You can also pedal the bike and use all gears with ZERO drag while peddling or coasting.
The chain going back to the gearbox will not even turn.
We still have some parts that we do not have pictures of posted on the site. We will post these as soon as we can.
This is a very high quality kit. All the parts are CNC machined.
You may also want or need the following parts: Tool Crank Puller Series III. 14 / 15mm 8mm Hex
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/Tool_Crank_Puller_Series_III_14_15mm_61986-1044-0.htmlChain Breaker For IG / HG / UG 410H
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/Chain_Breaker_For_IG_HG_UG_410H_Chain_NuVinci-617-0.htmlTool Bottom Bracket 1/2" Square Drive
Used to remove your old bottom bracket cups or have a local bike shop do it for you. When you remove the bottom brackets cups be sure and clean them out real good. Use a Wire brass brush and clean the threads. Be sure and add a thin layer of grease to the threads before you install the new cups that hold the two bearings.
The LEFT side of the bike has the RIGHT hand threaded bracket. To remove the Left cup, turn CCW or turn to the front of the bike.
The RIGHT side of the bike has the LEFT hand threads. To remove the right cup, turn CW or turn to the front of the bike.
The Cup that has the Four ( 4 ) flats on it has the LEFT HAND threads and will be installed on the RIGHT side of the bike.
The Cup with the Two ( 2 ) flats on has the RIGHT HAND threads and it will be installed on the LEFT side of the bike.
Due to the ID where the Chainrings bolt up vary by different manufactures. Some of the chainrings have "Dish" and some do not. We cannot ship these kits with out assembling the kit here. Also have special tools to put the assembly together and the assembly is also part of quality control.
The Dicta brand freewheels are manufactured different from the ACS & White Ind.
The Dicta brand has the retaining ring opposite of the ACS and White Ind.
The Dicta brand seems to stay together better in the use with this Crank kit.
Instructions for the Crank Shift Kit
Be sure you have all the tools needed first before you start the job. Below is a list of what you may need.
1. 8mm Allan Wrench to remove and install the Bottom Bracket (BB) Axle bolts.
2. Tool Crank Puller Series III. 14 / 15mm 8mm Hex
3. Chain Breaker For IG / HG / UG 410H or hand grinder, file.
4. Tool to remove your old cups Bottom Bracket with the 1/2" Square Drive.
5. The Staton cups can be installed with a Large Crescent Wrench or Channel Lock pliers that open to 1.39”.
6. Small Wire or Brass Brush to clean out threads. Oil or light grease to place in the threads of the BB.
7. 7/16” Open Wrench
8. 9/16” Open Wrench
9. After you install the Staton cups with the four bearings. The Axle will be pre-installed in the chain ring set along with the key way.
The three spacers will also be on the axle with black tape holding them on.
The spacers are:
One: 16mm flat washer with a 17.15mm ID and 30mm OD x 3mm thick.
Three: ¾” Snap Rings 0.40” thick each.
Outer before the crank arm goes on. Add One: 16mm flat washer with a 17.15mm ID and 30mm OD x 3mm thick. Two: ¾” Snap Ring 0.40” thick each.
Left Side: Add One ¾” Snap Ring 0.40” thick each.
Note: You may have to Add more spacers due to the width of the bottom bracket.
After you have installed the kit:
Be sure and pedal the bike for a few feet to lock the freewheel adaptor onto the freewheel sprocket.
Slowly increase the throttle until the 44 tooth sprocket turns the freewheel and locks it to the adaptor.
When riding never kit the throttle wide open, slowly increase the throttle until both freewheels have locked in. This will keep you from tearing up freewheels. If you’re coasting 15 mph, don’t hammer the throttle, slowly increase the throttle until both freewheels have locked in, then you can increase the throttle wide open.