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Instructions for the Axle Mounted kit and pictures

Instructions for the Axle Mounted kit and pictures
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Price: $10.00
Product ID : 3625
Manufacturer: Staton-Inc


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These pictures are to help you install you Axle mounted kit.

This item not for sale.  Do not add it to your cart.  It is for you to read and you can print from the web site.

Instructions for the Staton-Inc. Axle mounted Gear and Chain Drive kit. 
Read the complete instruction over twice. 
Highlight anything you do not understand or have questions about, then call or email us before you start the install.

The zip lock bag has several very small parts.  Open on a clean surface so you do not loose any of the parts. 

Save this copy as it has notes about your custom made gear box, clutch drum, gears, shaft ect.

The Lithium Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI # 1.5 (Black in Color) 2-3 oz MAX.  The grease will be in the gearbox.  It “may” push out any extra grease via the Vent hole in one of the NPT plugs.  This is normal.  

If you need to add grease only add about 1/2 or 2 oz via the NPT Vent Plug with the small hole.

This kit will fit drop out width of _____ Best for bikes that have a 7 or 8 speed freewheel, not un less you have ordered the 110mm axle that is designed for single speed or coaster brake hubs. 

Note:  You cannot use a coaster brake with this system.

Look at the two sets (10 + detailed pictures) of mounting pictures on the web site.  All the engines mount the same, so look at all of them to get more information before you start.  Also look at the Photo Gallery for the Axle mounted kits and more styles of bikes and other options may show more pictures.

After you get your wheel re laced into the Staton Custom hub with the Left Hand threads on the left side and right hand threads on the right side or you have bought a new wheel from us you are ready to start.  Make sure “both” freewheel sprockets are tight on the hub.

Place the Axle mount Spacer on the left side of the axle, leave the 12 mm snap ring on.

Place the 2” x 3” x 7” long Angle bracket with the 10 mm hole or 5/8” Hole on the axle or spacer, then slide the wheel with the left hand freewheel sprocket and the larger #35 sprocket in to your frame.

Be sure and snug up the right side first, this will help move the left side into position.  Check and make sure your wheel is where it should be.  

Place the angle bracket to a Horizontal position, then tighten the 10 mm flange nut.  

Now would be a good place to test ride the bike to make sure everything is where you want it before you install the axle brace or drill any holes in to the angle bracket.

Once your wheel is in place make the frame with a marker.  You can turn the angle bracket to best suit your needs and the type of engine you have.  If using the Robin Subaru EH025 or EH035 you can go up to 30 degrees. 

Try to keep the fuel tank as level as possible so when you check or change oil ( in Four Cycle - 4 Stroke engines) it easy to make sure you have the correct amount.  If you want or need the engine tilted you can all ways place the rear wheel on a step or block of wood to lever out the engine so you can get a good reading on the oil level.

A Honda GX25 or GX35 can run at any angle, but you still need the fuel tank level so you can check the oil level correctly and fill the tank.  It is best to keep the engine level so you can check the oil without having to raise the back wheel to level the tank - engine.

If you are using a Two Cycle or Two Stroke Engine it does not matter as to the angle.  Just be sure you can fill the tank with the correct two Cycle mix ratio for your engine.

Try to pick up one or more holes in the frame to support the angle bracket.  This will help keep the bracket in place and from turning. 

Most bike frames will have two holes that are drilled and tapped with a 5 mm x .80 thread hole.  I would drill out to a 6 mm for extra strength.  You may need 5 mm or 6 mm bolts, flat washer and nylock nuts that are not included with the kit.  Pick up both bolt holes if possible.

Angle bracket Description:  2” x 3” x 3/16” x 7” long.  Black - Aluminum



The Angle bracket should be perpendicular to the sprocket.  When you install the brace, be sure and do not bend the angle bracket to match your frame.

24”wheels and larger use the TOP hole.  This keeps the engine and gearbox lower to the ground.

The 2nd or Lower hole is for 20” & 16” and smaller so it raises the kit away for the ground so the engine – gas tank does not hit the ground on tight turns.



Angle Brace Description:  (¼” x 1” x 7” long aluminum flat bar brace with the two ¼” holes drilled in it and a machined slot for the hose clamp. 

If needed bend the brace (flat bar) slightly to match the frame.  Make sure that the brace is nice and tight up against the frame as it’s purpose is to keep the angle bracket - engine and gear box from trying to rotate clock wise under power. 

Keep the end of the brace about ½” away from the machined slots.  This will allow more space for the bolts to move up and down in the slots in order to adjust the chain.  

Once the brace is placed where you want it, use a 6mm or ¼” drill bit to mark and drill thru the 3/16” bracket.  Please the flat washers on the outside of the frame.  Make sure the bolts do not extend too far as they will contact the freewheel sprocket or the nuts that hold the sprocket onto the freewheel. 

In most cases you will not use flat washer on the bolt that is closest to the axle as it would make the nylock nut stick out too far and hit the nylock nut on the freewheel. 

In most cases the other bolt can be longer and you can use a flat washer, then the nylock nut. 

Then install the hose clamp as shown. 

Spin the wheel and make sure none of the parts touch each other and that you have the wheel and brakes installed correctly.

The Angle BRACE should help hold the Angle Bracket in place in both directions. 

Once the wheel and angle bracket in comply installed.  Install the Extra 10 mm x 1.0 hex nut with a 17 mm wrench.  This is a safety to make sure the 10mm x 1.0 flange nut that uses a 15 mm wrench does not come loose.  Note:  You may have two flange nuts.

Now test ride the bike again without the engine - gear box.  Test the gear shifting, brakes, wheel alignment and re check for any loose nuts or bolts and that nothing is make contact that should not.

Install the chain on a clean flat surface just in case you drop a small part you will be able to find it.   Use the master link or connecting link to attach the two ends of the chain together.  Install the master link to the inside, closest to the wheel.  A #25 and #35 master link has very small parts so be sure and do not loose them.  Install on a clean flat surface.

If  you have a Four Cycle engine be sure and add the correct amount of oil as per the engine manual.  Also add some unleaded gas or two cycle mix depending on the engine you have.  Again check your engine manual or your invoice.

If the engine is bolted to the gear box it’s time.  Remove the ¼-20 x ½” Long Socket Head Cap Screw, use a 3/16” Allan Wrench to remove the bolt.  Also remove one of the two ¼” NPT plugs right above the sprocket.  This is where you will add the oil to the gear box.  Once the oil starts to run out of the bolt hole you have enough oil.  Again, it only take 1 to 2 oz.

Hold the gear box - engine in the upper part of the slot, then place chain over both sprocket and allow the gear box to lower.   This will take the slack out of the chain if your chain was per cut.  If not you will have to cut you own chain, use the highest position in the slot as possible.  Then is the chain stretches you can lower the gear box to take the slack out of the chain.  You do not want the chain too tight.  You should be able to press in down about 1/16”of an inch in the center of the two sprocket.  The Angle bracket should self allign the chain.  If not use a 5/8” snap ring, 14 or 18 gage machined flat washers to move the sprocket on the shaft to match the sprocket on the wheel.  Use a flat bar or laser to align the two sprockets.

Install the remote stop - kill switch.  The correct ends will be in with the switch, so you will have to cut or strip back 3/8” - ½” of outer coating, then crimp the connector on the wire.  Depending on your bike frame you may have to add extra wire.  You get the ground via the frame 99% of the time.  If your switch does not ground you may have to add a second wire to ground the kill switch to the engine.

Use the Black nylon ties to hold the throttle cable and wire to the frame.  Be sure and do NOT hold the throttle cable too tight to the frame.  The outer casing of the throttle cable should be able to move freely and this will help keep you throttle from sticking. This will help the cable return to an idle when you release the lever or move the twist grip. 

Test the throttle back and forth without the engine running and make sure it returns to the idle position before starting.  


Test the stop - kill switch before riding.  If you switch does not work,  Do NOT ride the bike until it has been repaired or replaced.  If your throttle would happen to stick you need a way to stop the engine without having to rely on the bikes brakes to stop you.  Be sure and have two good working brakes at all times.


Test ride the bike first without the engine started.  Test the brakes and the gear shifting. Test again to make sure the engine kit is mounted correctly and nothing is contacting anything.  If the nuts or bolts are too close, use a flat washer by the head of the bolt or you may have to file them or use a different type of bolt and nut that is not included in the kit.

Test ride in a closed area, not in the street with traffic.  Test ride at a slow place, re test the switch to make sure it stops the engine.

Make sure the throttle is in the slow position, start the engine, test the stop switch to make sure it works, make sure it is placed where you do not have to move your hand to stop the engine.  Do not ride if the stop switch is broke or missing.  Make sure your hands and clothing are not in the way of moving parts.  Wear eye protection then,  lift the rear wheel and slowly increase the throttle and check the alignment of the chain.  If out of align, stop the engine and re adjust.  Test ride slow in a closed area, not in the street.  Slowly increase the speed if everything is in alignment.  Most of the engines will gain about 27% more power after they are broke in.  Also, keep in mind that the chain may stretch.  You will have to adjust the chain at least once in most cases.  Check the complete bike and engine kit before each ride.

The clutch engaging noise is normal and nothing to worry about.  As you increase your speed the noise will stop.  It is best when starting out that you pedal the bike 3-5 turns and help get moving. The larger the drive sprocket on the gear box the longer the “clutch noise” may sound.  The gear box will also become smoother as time goes by after it “breaks in”.  It may take up to one gallon of fuel for the engine and gear box to break in.

Do not let the bike fall over or it could damage the starter & or engine.

Always look and feel for any loose or missing bolts, chain tension, master link, miss alignment, check tire pressure & make sure you have good tread before riding, make sure your brakes are in good working condition, make sure the remote stop switch works at all times. 
Wear all safety gear & bright colored flag so others will see you.
Ride at a slow safe speed.
Obey all Local, City and state laws. 
Ride at your our Risk.
Do not ride fast or at night.

Be sure and look at the web site for close up pictures.  All bicycles are different so other mounting hardware may be needed.

This is a kit for the “Do It Your Selfer”. 

The quality of this project depends on you.  If you are not skilled, seek out professional help.  

Staton-Inc.          Phone & Fax: 1-405-605-3765

3310 S. Brunson St.

OKC, OK 73119 USA 

Web address:   E-mail us at:

Notes:  __________________________________________________________________



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