Contact Us

3310 S. Brunson Street
Oklahoma City, OK
73119 USA

Phone & Fax:
(405) 605-3765

Sales Questions:

Technical Questions:

Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions

No items found

Would you like to continue shopping or view our site map?

Call Us @ 405-605-3765.

Staton Gear and Chain Outside Drive Kits:
            Be sure and read the complete instruction before starting to mount your kit. Also take a look at the pictures showing different ways to mount this kit. You may need or want to mount this other than what is shown. All bikes are NOT made alike. Print off the close up pictures from our web site of the many gear and chain drive kits, or print the pictures off if we have a bike that is like yours.

Think about safety first. Be sure and use all safety equipment or have it installed by a professional craftsman. Your bike may need extra parts, nuts, bolts, washers or spacers that are NOT included in the kit. We do offer a 5 inch & 8 inch extension bracket that can be ordered from the website if you have a full suspension bike or if you need to move the gear box further from the seat.

The Standard position of the output shaft on both the Outside and Inside drive gear boxes is a 9 O’clock position, if your facing the gear box. We can change the position of the output shaft to a 3 O’clock or a 6 O’clock position depending on your needs.


1. We sell complete Double Wall Alum. 20” and 26” Rims - wheels that are ready to mount in your bike frame or take the Staton Custom hub to your Local bike shop to have them re-spoke it. Be sure and take your old wheel that you are replacing. They can use your rim and they need to know how to Dish the wheel to fit your bike frame and brakes.

The Staton custom hubs have a 2.49” flange and the center of hole to center of hole is 2.052" or approx 2 - 1/16". The bike shop will add 10 mm ID spacers or use 10 mm x 1.0 nuts & washers as spacers to the left and right side to get the correct width.

Install the Left hand threaded 16 tooth freewheel on the left side of the hub. Our hubs are available in a 28, 32, 36 & 48 hole. They have Left hand threads on the left side with the shorter axle and right hand threads on the right side with the longer axle. The right side has standard 1- 3/8 - 24 RIGHT HAND bicycle threads. The left hand side uses a 1-3/8" - 24 LEFT HAND thread. We use both 16 and 22 tooth Left Hand threaded freewheel sprocket.

2. After you get your wheel back from the bike shop, screw the 16 or 22 tooth Left hand freewheel sprocket on to the left side of the hub. Pay close attention and thread the sprocket on level. Remember it’s a LEFT HAND thread, so you spin it CCW to install it and CW to remove it. Our custom axles have a snap ring on each end that hold the FOUR bearings in place. The snap rings will hold 20,000 lbs of force before they break and a bike will never put that much pressure on the snap rings. The 10 mm x 1.0 flange nuts go on the out side of the frame. You can use a 10mm Flat washer and or a 10mm x 1.0 Hex nut as spacers if needed. Screw on your old right hand freewheel sprocket on the right side of the hub. The right hand freewheel will screw on CW. The Staton custom hubs are designed for thread on style freewheel sprockets from 1 to 8 speeds, giving you a total range up to 24 speeds on the pedal side.

They do not work with Cassettes style sprockets. See our web site if you do not know the difference as we have a picture of both styles.

If your bike has a Cassette style sprocket you may want to buy a complete new Double wall rim and freewheel from our web site and save your old rim and cassette. The freewheel on the right side of the hub must be the screw on type and is not provided.

3. Lower part of the frame: You may want to drill out the 5mm hole (s) to a 6mm or ¼" hole if you have enough material around the hole. If you want a 6mm hole you will have to buy the 6mm bolts and nylock nuts if they are needed. Place the head of the ¼-20 x 1 inch bolts or 6mm bolt towards the sprockets on the inside of the frame to allow more spacing, the nylon nuts will go on the out side of the bike frame. Do this first, as you may not have enough room to get the bolts in from the inside of the frame after the wheel and sprockets are on. Put the wheel in the frame and check to make sure the sprockets clear the head of the nut. You can add a 10 mm flat washer to get more width in the frame if needed. Turn the pedal and make sure the chain clears. Be sure and have your bolts in the lower part of the frame before you tighten the wheel in place. Use separate mounting holes for each of the FOUR 6 hole stamped brackets if possible. You can drill a larger hole in the 6 hole bracket and slide it over the axle if needed or if your bike does not have the drop outs. 4. Attach the U mounting bracket to the A frame of the bike. Use the center brake hole if possible or place the bracket above or below the brake. Make sure the bracket does not hit the tire or fender. Some full suspension bike may need a longer extension brackets to move the gear box away for the seat and or rider. We stock a 5" & 8" zinc plated brackets that are sold on our web site. These brackets are very easy to make. Most hardware stores will have the metal you need or have it made by a local machine shop. Most hard tail bikes won't need the extra long extension brackets.
5. Front Fulcrum: Start the 3/8-16 x 7" long bolt from the right side, add one 3/8-16 x 3" thumb screw with a 3/8” hole drilled in the center of flange, then into the U bracket, then thru the fulcrum then into the other side of the U bracket, then place the thumb screw on the outside of the U bracket, then spin on the 3/8-16 nylock nut to hold in place. Note: For now leave the gear box where it can slide to the left or right as you will install spacers on both side of the gear box to make it solid using a ½-13 x 1.25” coupling nut or use a ½-13 standard nut which is about .44 wide or use 3/8” Flat washers to get the correct fill on both sides of the gear box so it cannot move left or right. Some customer will cut a length of Alum. Or steel tubing to make the fill. The good thing about using coupling nuts, standard nut or flat washers are that they have a Zinc plating and will not rust and does not require and cutting. Once mounted this kit is very strong and ridged.

Position the gear box / engine so you can best fill the fuel tank and check the oil level if you have a four cycle engine. Keep in mind you can change the position of the pull started on some of the engines.

6. Place a block of wood or something on the top of the tire about 1" thick. Set the gear box in place where the sprocket on the gear box is inline with the sprocket on the LEFT side of the hub. Fold the chain in half and drop it around the sprocket that is on the gear box and let in hang down to the sprocket on the left side of the hub. You may want to take off the guard by using a 5/32" wrench. Use a adjustable wrench or Vise Grips to lock on to the Allan wrench close to the head of the bolt to help turn the Allan wrench. If you don't do this your Allan wrench can snap due to the red thread locker. If you do, be sure and replace the sprocket / chain guard before riding and apply thread locker to the bolts to keep them from coming out. Use a straight edge to make sure your chain is in alignment with the 16 tooth freewheel on the hub and with the sprocket on the gear box. Make sure you leave the 1” spacer under the gear box then measure and cut your chain and add the master link and place some light tension on the chain.
Rear Fulcrum: Add the 3/8" Bolt, starting from left to right, placing a thumb screw on first, then the ½-13 x 1-1/8" coupling nut, (used as spacer only) then gear box, then the other ½-13 x 1- 1/8" coupling nut, (used as spacer only) then the thumb screw, then the 3/8-16 nylon lock nut. This should fit pretty close and should have the correct width for you rear supports.
Place the 6 hole stamped bracket with the ½" square tubing, position to see what fits your bike or project best. Keep in mind you can use many different positions, placing the square tubing inside or outside the frame, up or down, you may need to add a spacer (and a longer bolt) to keep the support tube as straight as possible. Most bikes have two drop outs, so use one for each support. If your bike has two drop outs (one on each side) use one the Six hole to attach the front support to the same 6 hole bracket, but make sure you use ALL four supports. You can use the axle of the bike, by drilling a 3/8" hole on the lower part of the 6 hole bracket. It's best not to use the axle, so if you need to change a tire or tube, all you do is take the master link out & the chain off, then drop your wheel out. If you use the axle to attach the four support tubes, they too will need to come off or unbolt the square tubes from the 6 hole bracket.
You may need longer bolts and spacers depending on your bike frame, type and width. Notice the pictures of the tandem bike, look at the right lower support brackets. Be sure and look at all the different ways to attach these kits to all most any type of bike. We used 3/8-16 x 1-1/8" long coupling nuts to move the support tube in a more straight up right position. Make sure none of the brackets or hardware contacts the spokes or moving parts of the bike.

Make sure the 3/8-16 standard nut and the 3/8-16 keps nuts are as high up to the top of the thumb screws as possible. This will give you more adjustment to take the chain tension out.

Once you have placed and cut the 1st rear support to length, put light tension on the chain, then cut the 2nd rear support tube to length, put light tension in the chain, and cut the square tubing off where it would contact the keps nut & standard nut. Be sure and run the 3/8-16 standard nut and the 3/8-16 keps nuts all the way to the top of the thumb screw. This will allow you more length to adjust the chain tension. After you cut the square tubes, you may need to run a 3/8" drill bit down in the inside of the tubing or use a small file to clean the inside edge of the tubing if needed. Then slide the threaded part of the thumb screw in the square tubing to see if it needs a drill ran inside or needs filed. Be sure and place the square tube in a vise while drilling and wear safety equipment.

Install the left REAR support first, then measure and cut the right REAR, place light tension on the chain, then measure and cut the front LEFT support. (make sure the bolt heads or the nylon nut do not contact the chain) if so, change the position or bolts, or use a different hole in the 6 hole plate, then measure and cut the forward RIGHT support. This forward support is mounted different on most bikes then what you mounted the forward left support. Again, check and make sure that nothing contacts moving parts. After the four supports are in place. Check the chain alignment and slide the gear box left to right then use the coupling nuts, standard nut or flat washer as spacers to fill the space in-between the gear box and the U bracket.

The chain should have about a 1/16” to 1/8" of flex when pressing on the chain in the center of the two sprockets. Keep in mind the chain may stretch and you may have to re adjust the two rear supports. Do not put more tension on the front supports or the "U" bracket will bend your frame. If you have the 5" or 8" extensions you can raise the front or the gear box too.

Be sure and loosen the nylock nuts so the extension bracket can move while you make your adjustments, then be sure and tighten up all the nuts and bolts.

To add tension, unlock the keps nut & the standard nut, then screw the keps nuts down, this will lift the gear box and engine, do both side equal, then tighten the standard nut TIGHT against the keps nuts, this will hold / lock them in place. Do this to the rear supports only if mounted to a hard tail bike. The front supports are just to make sure the gear box does not pull down while the power is increased, again not unless you have the extension brackets on the U bracket. Make sure the gear box is level and straight inline with the sprocket on the wheel.

Look and make sure that the sprocket and chain does not contact the guard. Note: The bolts that hold the guard in place can be moved to different positions, so use the position that best fits your needs.

Be sure and oil the chain as needed. Go to your local Bike Shop for the best products.

Stop Switch: Do not move the toggle back and forth until it’s mounted on your handle bar as you can damage the switch. Strip back 3/8" of the outer coating of the short piece of wire that is taped to the stop switch, insert the stripped end into the female - red connector that leads from the stop switch, then crimp the connector on to the wire. Be sure and do not use a match or Lighter around the engine or gas. Slide the heat shrink black tube (it's about 1" long) and center it over the connection, then use a match or lighter to shrink it to the connector. Check the length of wire, then strip back 3/8" of the outer coating off the other end of the wire and crimp the Blue Male Snap Plug. Now the Blue Male Snap Plug can insert in to the female connector that's on a lead wire from the engine. Test the stop switch before riding to make sure your connections are good. Never ride if your remote stop switch is broken. Place the remote stop switch where you can reach it with a finger or thumb without having to move your hands off the handle bars.
Run the throttle cable and remote stop switch to the handle bar, use the ties to hold in place, make sure the wheel will turn full left and full right. Do not make the ties real tight so the throttle cable can move and not bind up.

The Robin Subaru EH035 & EH025 and all the Honda engines are Four Stroke - 4 Cycle engines. Be sure and add oil to the crank case before starting. Read the manuals first, then follow the directions in the manuals.

The Tanaka engines are Two Stroke or 2 Cycle engines and require unleaded gas and two cycle oil mixture. Mix the First gallon of mix at a 40 to 1 ratio or 3.2 oz of two cycle oil to one gallon of unleaded gas for break in, then a 50 to 1 ratio or 2.56 oz of two cycle oil to one gallon of unleaded gas.

After you have added oil / gas and or two-cycle mix, make sure the remote stop switch is installed and the throttle is in the slow position. Start the engine, test the stop switch to make sure it works, make sure it is placed where you do not have to move your hand to stop the engine. Do not ride if the stop switch is broke or missing. Lift the rear wheel (or have a helper lift it, making sure your hands are not where they could get hurt, make sure the tire is clean so it does not throw any thing at you, wear safety glasses ) make sure the Master link is properly installed, then slowly increase the throttle and check the alignment of the chain. If out of alignment, stop the engine and re adjust by adding or removing spacers on the U bracket and checking the rear supports.

Test ride slow in a closed area, not in the street. Slowly increase the speed if everything is in alignment. Most of the engines will gain about 27% more power after they are broke in or about 6 tanks of fuel. Also, keep in mind that the chain may stretch. Check and or oil if needed before each ride.
Always look and feel for any loose or missing bolts, chain tension, master link, miss alignment, check tire pressure & make sure you have two good brakes and check your tire tread and air pressure before riding. Wear all safety gear & bright colored flag. Ride at a slow safe speed. Obey all city and state laws. Do not ride fast or at night. Just like a car or motorcycle, don't run any faster then it's safe. Watch out for the other drivers as they may not see you. Watch out for pot holes and railroad tracks. Be sure and look at the web site for close up pictures. We would also see to see a picture of your finished project. Please e-mail us a picture and we may post it on our web site for others to see. This is a kit for the “Do It Your Selfer”. Most customers can install this kit without any problems, and using common tools in about 2 hours.
NOTE: The Inside Drive kit comes with the same parts as the outside drive. You will need other hardware - flat bar to install. The Inside Drive kit is more centered on the back wheel, but is a little harder to install.

The quality of this project depends on you.

If you are not skilled, seek out professional help.  DO NOT attempt to install if you are not comfortable with these instructions.

            Your safety comes FIRST.

In most states & cities there is no age limit, tag, license or insurance required on Motorized bikes & trikes as long as the engine is 50cc or less, you don't exceed 30 mph and you are able to humanly propel the bike and it has a centrifugal clutch. All our kits meet these requirement.

Friction Drive Mounting Instructions For All Engines:
Mounting instruction for the Friction drive Bicycle/Trike Kits, model FDR & FDF. Check out our web site before you start mounting the bike kit if available. You can look at the pictures of several bikes and see the many different options of using the mounting brackets.

Note: For mounting pictures look under "Shop", then go to the Friction Drive kits page. Click on the any of those pages to see more close up details of how to mount the kit. All engines mount the same regardless of engine brand or size.

Mounting instruction for the Friction Drive Bicycle/Trike Kits, model FDR & FDF. Check out our website before you start mounting the bike kit if available. You can look at the pictures of several bikes and see the many different options of using the mounting brackets.

These kits are Very easy to install.
All Tanaka engines are two cycle engines. Break in the engine with a 40 to 1 mix ratio of two cycle oil to the gallon of unleaded gas. One gallon is enough to break in the engine. After break in mix at a 50 to 1 ratio or 2.6 oz of high quality two cycle oil to one gallon of unleaded gas. Higher octane unleaded gas works best. Note: Engine & starter position can be changed.

Robin - Subaru Four Cycle engine: Read and follow manual. You must add SAE 10W-30 oil to the engine. EH035 33.5 cc add 3.33 oz and the EH025 24.5 cc add 2.68 oz. You may need to "level" the engine in order to check the oil level correctly. The stop switch mounted on the engine.

Honda GX25, Honda GX35 & Honda GXH50 are all four cycle engines.  Be sure and add oil to the crank case before starting. Read the manuals first, then follow the directions in the manuals.

Strip 3/8” of the rubber coating off both ends of the wire. Place the stripped wire Plug the male end into the female end that is on the engine, crimp the ends on the black wire. Test to make sure you have a good connection before riding and that the stop switch stops the engine. The 2nd wire is a ground, but usually is not needed to stop the engine. A very few bikes may require that you run a ground or 2nd wire from the engine to the kill switch mount. To stop the engine you can pull the spark plug wire or lift the "chock" lever and the engine will die. If your stop switch is not working, it's best that you do not ride until the switch is replaced.

Rear mounting: You may need to remove the rear fender or cut a space out so the drive roller will engage the tire without making contact with the fender. You also may need to drill a 1/4" hole in the left lower mounting bracket above the rear axle, most bikes have a 5mm threaded hole. Drilling the hole out will allow you to adjust the tension without using any tools.
Use the 1/4" pin with the 3/8" jam nut (as a spacer only) to hold the bottom part of the rod to the frame of the bike. Use the 1/4" bolt & nylon nut to hold the top part of the bracket in place, using a flat washer on each side.

You can place the angle on either side of the ¼“ black housing, trying to keep as straight as line from the housing to the lower axle mount. You may need to drill a ¼“ hole in the “U” shaped bracket to off set the mounting. The quick release will slide up or down, to engage or disengage the drive roller.
Attach the "U" shaped bracket above the rear wheel, you may be able to use the center brake hole, if the bolt is long enough, if not mount the bracket above the brake. Use the 1/4-20 x 1 - 3/4" bolts to attach the backer plate to the "U" bracket. DO NOT over tighten the bolts or you may bend your frame. Some customers will place a small piece of rubber under the mounting brackets.
A old inner tube works great for this. Check to make sure it is tight enough and still positioned correctly after your test ride. Center the drive roller over the center of the tire, or where most of the “knurled” surface is in contact with the smooth tread tire, then tighten the two "keps" nuts against the black Alum. housing to keep in alignment. Tighten the outside 3/8-16 nylon nuts so it is even with the end of the carriage bolt. You may need to have someone squeeze the “U” bracket together so you can place the 3/8-16 nylon nut on the carriage bolt, or use a clamp.

Front mounting:

You will need to drill the 1/4" hole in the 1/8" x 1" x 2" flat bar that is welded to a 3/8-16 coupling nut to match the dia. of the axle on the front of the trike or bike. Some axles are 5/16", 3/8" or 10mm. You may want to use a lock washer, "double nut" , or use lock tight to keep the axle nut from coming off. Most front fender can stay on as long as the drive roller does not contact the fender. Some front forks may require longer bolts that are not included.

Run the throttle cable and the remote stop switch wire along the frame up to the handle bars to the right or left side. Install the throttle lever with hose clamp or twist grip first, then the remote stop switch close to the throttle. This way you can "stop" the engine without moving your hand if needed. Use the nylon ties to hold the cable in place, but do not tighten the nylon ties against the cable & wire too tight, leave enough play so the cable will not bind. Be sure and turn the wheel full left and full right and make sure the throttle cable & wire does not bind. Test with the engine not running and make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.

Most kick stands will NOT hold the bike up right.
Install the tension rod as shown in the pictures. When the drive roller is not engaged, the slot will be in the higher position, when engaged, it will be in the lower position. Make sure the drive roller does NOT slip on the smooth tread tire or it will wear it. You can place the engaging rod in many positions, use the best position that your bike requires. A extra engaging rod can be added to the right side if needed or wanted.
Starting the engine: After you have mixed the gas and 2-cycle oil in a gas can, fill the tank, then press the primer bulb several times until you see the fuel go in the clear line.
Lift up the chock lever, make sure the stop switch is in the "ON" position, pull the starter rope while supporting the engine. Make sure your hand is not in contact with the drive roller or any hot places on the engine.

Short fast pulls work best. Do not over pull or pull too hard as you may damage the starter.
After the engine starts, let it warm up for about 20 seconds, then lower the lever down.
Read this section real close. You must use a "smooth tread, street style or slick" type tire tread with all friction drive units. This will allow for a better contact point for the drive roller to contact the tire. Check air pressure in the tires, do not over fill, use the amount stated on the tire. Then apply enough pressure to the tire so the drive roller does not slip when given full throttle. A 1/8” to 3/16” depression is about what you will need depending on the engine size and style of tire. If the drive roller slips, be sure and rotate the tire to a new location and adjust more pressure by turning the coupling nut (down by the axle) counter clockwise two full turns then test again. If you do not have enough pressure on the drive roller, it will slip and wear the tire. If you have too much pressure on the tire the engine will not perform very well. Having the correct pressure and style of tire is most important when using a friction drive kit.
Tires with Kevlar work great. Some customers claim up to 1,400 miles on one tire.
Most of these engines will gain about 27% more power after you have used 4 to 6 full tanks of gas and/or gas/mix.

NOTE: There will / may be a "Noise" when the clutch rotor engages the clutch drum. As you increase your speed the noise will stop. The clutch engaging noise is normal. It is best when starting out that you pedal the bike 3-5 turns and help get moving. The larger the drive roller you have the longer the “clutch noise” will sound.

Ride at a slow safe speed and obey all local city and state laws. Always wear ridding and safety gear. A bright colored flag will help others see you. A speedometer, light and reflectors are a good addition to your bike. Make sure you have good front & rear brakes. In most states & cities there is no age limit, tag, license or insurance required on Motorized bikes and trikes. Be sure and check your local city & state laws for complete details. Ride at your own risk. Watch out for the other drivers. Auto traffic may not see you and pull out in front of you.
Be sure and Lock your bike and engine kit up so no one can steel it.
We also offer different sizes of drive rollers for the engines. The smaller the drive roller the more low end power you have, the larger OD drive rollers have a faster top speed but less low end power.

Drive roller stock sizes: 0.930", 1", 1 1/8” & 1.34".

Do Not Allow the bike fall over. The starter and or engine may be damaged.