DO NOT ADD THIS TO YOUR CART. It is to read and or print off only.
How to install a Drive roller in a Staton-Inc. Channel
52 mm clutch rotors / 54 mm clutch drums have both of the retaining rings on the INSIDE of the Channel. This is to hold the drive roller and clutch drum in place.
Use two large flat screw drivers to spread apart and a small flat screw driver to lift the ring out of the grove. Only remove the retaining ring on the Long leg or engine side.
1. Press the bearing with the retaining ring in the inside / on the short leg of the channel. Use a block of wood or rubber mallet if needed.
2. Remove the retaining ring from the bearing. Grip the retaining ring (where it is split) with a pair of wire dykes or plyers. Place the loose ring over the bearing on the short leg of the channel. Insert the Drive roller thru the bearing hole of the LONG leg / Engine Side of the channel.
3. The drive roller should have a light press fit. ONLY press the end into the drive roller about half way into the bearing on the short leg at this time.
4. Now place the 2nd bearing (with the retaining grove first) over the threaded end of the drive roller and press the bearing all the way down so you can install the retaining ring. You may need to use a block of wood or a Rubber mallet if you do not have an arbor press. To install the retaining ring, start on one side, then roll with your finger or thumb.
5. Place the Drive roller in a bench vice to hold tight where the threads are up right.
6. Add ONE BIG Drop of Blue or Red lock tight to the threads about 1/8” from the end of the threads.
7. Place a 12 mm flat washer on the threads, then thread on the 54mm ID Clutch Drum with the 12 mm x 1.5 female right hand threads. Use a Filter or band wrench to tighten. Order Product ID: Be sure you DO NOT BEND or damage the clutch drum. When you tighten the clutch drum it will pull the drive roller flush into that bearing and lock against the inner race of the bearing. Spin the drive roller to make sure it spins freely if not hold the channel firmly and stick the shorter leg of the channel with a rubber mallet beside the bearing in a downward motion and this will free up the bearings.
8. Some of the clutch drums are stamped so they have a wave cut on the end and NOT a flat cut so don’t let that fool you on how the part looks when you spin it.
9. Now you are ready to bolt it to the engine. Place all four bolts in the channel. Place the engine spacer in the center of the four bolts. Add ONE BIG Drop of Blue or Red lock tight to the threads about 1/8” from the end of the threads.
10. Set the channel on the engine, start the back two bolts towards the ID of the channel first. Tighten the outer bolts. Tighten in an X pattern a little at a time. Spin the drive roller as you do this. Once all are snug, use a 10 mm open end wrench and tighten in an x pattern a little at a time. They should be Very SUNG but not tight or you could damage the engine face.
11. Spin the drive roller again and make sure nothing is touching. You can also slowly pull the starter rope and make sure the drive roller does not spin and that the four bolts are not too long – contact the engine flywheel.
14. Some of the China made – Cheap clutch rotors have too much material on the shoes or not on the shoes correctly and this will cause the drive roller to spin. This will wear down after the first ride and should be fine.
I have been installing the friction drive kits from staton on mountain bikes and cruisers for many years now and feel that they are the best friction drive kits around. I have tried others and one of the others in particular had the roller and bearing set up be so cheap that after the third ride the whole set up was destroyed. It costs me less money to pay the larger price for the staton racks because they last a long time in comparison by far.
